When people think about Nicaragua they mostly refer to the Pacific coast of the country. Most of the population is concentrated in that region as well it serve as the center for the country's political and economic activity. Also the population of the Pacific side of the country is homogeneous with most of people being Spanish speaking mestizos. As I traveled into the Atlantic coast of the country I was introduced to an entire new identity of the nation.
It took about 8 hours to get to the Atlantic coast and once I got there I stayed for the first night in the city Bluefields where I had the opportunity to have a "charla" or talk with Johnnie Hodgson, who is person that developed the autonomy law for the region. After listening to Mr.Hodgson's lecture about the history of the Atlantic coast it was evident that both coasts were distinct of one another.The Atlantic coast was colonize by the British and was set up to be a protectorate while the pacific coast was colonize by the Spanish and developed its nation-state identity during the 19th century. Because the British decided to honor the Monroe Doctrine in the late 19th century and evacuated the region, President Zeleya set up a campaign to unify the Pacific coast with the Atlantic Coast. Once Zelaya succeeded in unifying the two coasts the region was name the Zeleya Department so that it marked his achievement in unifying the two coasts.
Zelaya indeed did unified the two coasts but the inhabitants of the Atlantic coasts were not in favor of this unification. First the Coastal people were used to having their own sovereign government controlled and protected by the British and second these people had a complete different culture and identity compared to the people of the pacific.The difference of identity and culture still exists in the present with the Atlantic coast population consisting of Creoles,Miskito,Mayagna,Garifunas,Ramas, and along with the new migrants of mestizos from the pacific.
I stayed for a few days in a small community called Pearl Lagoon. Most of the people in the are were Afro-descendant Creoles who spoke English Creole as their primary language and Spanish as a secondary language. There was also a handful of mix people in the area along with Miskitos and mestizos. I had the opportunity to talk to community leaders who are making the efforts to improve conditions in the Pearl Lagoon basin.
Hardships that the community faces does not only include the prolong issue of autonomy but also includes the following; teen pregnancy, drug abuse,conservation of natural resources, demarcation and titling of land, lack educational resources, and most importantly the struggle to maintain the region's diverse cultural and ethnic identity. The community leaders showed some optimism during there lectures but they said the changes will come once the community acknowledges these issues and make a movement out of it or the national government either supplies them with the proper resources that will allow the region progress and prosper in the future.
I learned a lot in my few days in Pearl Lagoon. I had the opportunity make lobster and potato salad in the kitchen of a local family while spending the afternoon crabbing around the lagoon. I concluded my stay at Bluefields where I got to see and participate in a Garifuna dance called "punta". In conclusion just like any other place I have visited, there's room for improvement in the Caribbean coast. The people lack the resources to make these efforts and the national government is neglecting the region and not providing it with proper resources. Autonomy is the solution for a good portion of the people in the are but not good enough for the national government. By giving autonomy to the region the government will not be allowed to access the abundance of resources that exists in the coast.
In my eyes I felt that i entered into the borders of another nation by hearing people speaking Creole and Miskito and seeing British colonial architecture all around the area. I will never forget about my experience at the Atlantic especially with the rhythm of Reggae and Soka are resounding in my mind as I go to sleep
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